British Shorthair Cat

The British Shorthair is the pedigreed version of the traditional British domestic cat, with a distinctively chunky body, dense coat and broad face. The most familiar colour variant is the "British Blue", a solid blue-gray with copper eyes, but the breed has also been developed in a wide range of other colours and patterns, including tabby and colorpoint.

It is one of the most ancient cat breeds known, probably originating from European domestic cats imported into Britain by the invading Romans in the first century AD. In modern times it remains the most popular pedigreed breed in its native country, as registered by the UK's Governing Council of the Cat Fancy (GCCF).

The breed's good-natured appearance and relatively calm temperament make it a frequent media star, notably as the inspiration for John Tenniel's famous illustration of the Cheshire Cat from Alice in Wonderland. In the more modern era, a blue British Shorthair is the subject of the original "I Can Has Cheezburger?" image, credited with popularising the lolcat phenomenon.

Animal Handling Safety Tips

Safe, effective animal handling demands total concentration on the animal you are handling and the knowledge to read the body language that animal is displaying. Taking a few moments to visually assess the dog or cat you are about to handle can make your job both safer and easier. Is the animal you are about to move someone’s healthy, even-tempered pet who just strayed out of the backyard? A feral cat? An undersocialized Chihuahua who has never been out of her home before? The latest feline victim of high-rise syndrome? Your handling technique and the tools you choose to assist you would vary depending on the scenario.

Handling Healthy, Even-Tempered Animals

Signs: No signs of illness or injury. Animal is at the front of the cage exhibiting relaxed body postures–sprawled out in a prone position possibly with belly exposed, sitting upright and alert. Head-bumping and scent marking with glands in the chin and above the eyes (cats). Wiggly body, bouncing up and down, tail wagging, licking and nose nudging (dogs).

Before opening the cage door, speak to the animal in a pleasant, upbeat voice. Let the animal sniff at your fingers through the bars. If you have never handled this animal before, review the information on the kennel card.

FOR DOGS:

Prepare kennel rope or lead to slip over animal’s head or attach to collar. Open cage door just enough to slip lead onto dog without letting the dog loose. Use inside of your knee/leg or your hip/shoulder to control the door to free up both of your hands should you need them to keep a rambunctious animal in the kennel. When using a slip lead, keep lead taut enough that the dog cannot back out of it if startled. Allow the dog to exit the cage.

To return a dog to a walk-in cage, open the cage door fairly wide and use a forward-moving arm gesture while moving the lead forward and uttering the command “go in.” For dogs who balk, try throwing a treat in ahead of them. Quickly close the door as soon as the dog jumps in. Open a crack to take off the lead after the dog is already kenneled. Do not enter the cage with the dog unless you are totally familiar with the dog. Some dogs become territorial about their space and walking into their cages could provoke a bite.

For smaller dogs who are housed in higher level cages, after slip lead is put on, place one hand behind the dog’s head and grab the ring and lead to prevent it from tightening up and to prevent the dog from turning around and nipping. The other hand reaches over the back and supports the chest and abdomen. Lift up and cradle the dog’s body against yours while holding the head away from you if necessary. Carry or place on the floor. Return the dog to the cage the same way. Immobilize the head by grasping the lead behind the head, reach over the back and cradle the chest in the palm of your hand and then lift back into the cage.

FOR CATS:

The handling technique for cats is similar to that of small dogs. Instead of holding the lead behind the head, place the crook of your hand (area between thumb and forefinger) on the cat’s neck at the base of the skull to keep the cat facing away from the handler. Reach your other arm over the cat’s back and support the chest and abdomen with your hand and forearm, cradling the cat against your body (football carry). Move to another cage or a carrier. I do not recommend carrying cats any great distance as they are highly reactive animals which can easily startle, changing from friendly to defensive aggressive in a few short seconds.

Handling Fearful Animals

Signs: Dilated pupils. Standing or lying tensely at the rear of the cage. Facing the back corner of the cage, glancing over the shoulder to keep handler in sight. Ears pulled back. Tucked tail in dogs. Agitated tail swishing in cats.

Speak to the animal in a soft, soothing yet upbeat tone of voice. Stand sideways or crouch down near cage. Looming over the animal directly head on will only increase the fear level. Avoid direct eye contact for it can be misconstrued as a challenge to fight. Whenever possible, allow the animal to approach the front of the cage and check you out in its own time. Offer a treat without making eye contact. It is a good sign if the animal is relaxed enough to take the treat.

It is safer to take the time to allow the animal to come to you rather than entering into the cage or reaching in to grab it. Most fearful animals would rather flee than fight, but they will bite if they feel cornered. Whenever possible, give a fearful animal 12-48 hours to acclimate before removing it from its cage for a procedure. Fearful cats will relax faster if the cage front is covered by paper or a towel. Fearful dogs should be housed in the quietest area of the kennel.

FOR DOGS:

To move mildly fearful dogs, try to get them on lead without entering too far into the cage. Once on lead, gently coax the dog out of the cage. Allow the dog some extra leash so he can move 3-5 feet away from the handler. Muzzle with either the lead or a sleeve muzzle before treatment if necessary. Hold the dog in a firm yet gentle manner against your body and continue to talk to the dog in a soft, confident tone. Do not remove the muzzle until the dog has been placed back on the floor or if thrashing around, until back in his cage.

Use an animal control pole to move excessively fearful dogs that absolutely must be moved. While this may very well increase the fear, handler safety can be maintained.

FOR CATS:

The importance of moving slowly and quietly in a gentle manner cannot be stressed strongly enough when handling fearful cats. Mildly fearful cats can be most easily handled by grabbing the scruff at the back of the neck with one hand and holding the fore paws with the other hand while using your elbow to hold the rear weight of the cat’s body against your side.

If it is absolutely necessary to handle a very fearful cat, use a large, thick towel or blanket to scoop up the cat and place it in a carrier. To remove from a carrier into another cage, open the carrier and tilt slightly into the cage. As the cat steps out and retreats to the back of the cage, swiftly close the door.

For feral cats, use of a squeeze cage or net is recommended for inoculations.

Handling Aggressive Animals

Signs: Growling, snarling, snapping, attempting to bite. Charging the front of the cage. Standing frozen at the front of the cage and hard-staring people. Ferocious barking and lunging.

If it is not absolutely necessary to handle an animal when it is acting aggressively, don’t. If you must, take every possible precaution. Make use of your animal control pole with dogs and cat graspers or net with cats. Never use an animal control pole on a cat. Whenever possible, have a second experienced handler with you to assist you should something go wrong. Double leashing (where two handlers have an aggressive dog leashed between them on taut leads) may be considered in areas where you may not be able to use a pole. Consider tranquilization.

In the event that a dog you are moving on lead tries to attack you, move your leash arm up and away from your body. An attack on a human being is the only time it is appropriate to execute a maneuver called “hanging” a dog. The idea is to cut off the dog’s air supply long enough to make the dog light-headed in order to stem the attack. This defensive tactic should only be executed when the handler is in jeopardy and the dog can be swiftly returned to a cage.

Handling Sick and Injured Animals

Signs: Labored breathing. The presence of blood, mucous, or open wounds. Limbs at odd angles. Limping, whimpering, lethargy, not eating.

The sweetest animal in the world can bite in response to pain. Before handling an injured animal, if possible ask medical personnel to assess the animal before moving it to determine the proper handling technique for the specific injury. If an animal is brought to the shelter in a box or carrier, keep it confined there until a medical exam is possible when circumstances allow.

Once a medical exam has been completed and the animal has been treated, take special care to be gentle with the animal. Avoid putting any pressure on the injured area. For dogs with neck injuries like embedded collars or tracheal collapse, provide body harnesses for movement since regular slip leads cannot be used. Soft bedding is particularly important for animals with splints and casts. Elizabethan collars (e-collars) may be necessary to prohibit chewing on bandages. Since e-collars intensify noise and block an animal’s peripheral vision, try to kennel the animal in as quiet a spot as possible during recuperation.

By assessing the individual animal’s behavior and responding accordingly, your handling skills will protect both ends of the lead.

Animal Medical Care Tips

Our advice isn't intended to replace regular visits to your veterinarian – just to offer some practical ways to ensure that your pet remains in the best possible health throughout his or her life.

Spay or Neuter
Talk about preventive medicine! Removing the ovaries and uterus of a female dog or cat – otherwise known as spaying – helps prevent breast cancer and pyometra, or infection of the uterus, and stops the animal from going into heat. (Female cats, by the way, can go into heat every 3 weeks!) And ASPCA experts believe that many aggressive behavior problems can be avoided by neutering a male, or removing the testicles, by the age of six months. The surgery also prevents testicular cancer, prostate, disease, and hernias.

Vaccinate
When your pet was born, he received protection from many diseases from antibodies passed in his mother's milk. These antibodies dissipated by the time he was about three months old, leaving his immune system vulnerable. That's where you come in. The ASPCA recommends that cats receive a three-in-one vaccine that protects against feline calicivirus, rhinotracheitis, and panleukopenia, as well as a rabies vaccination. Ask your vet if vaccinations for feline leukemia, chlamydia, feline infectious peritonitis, and ringworm are recommended for your kitty. Dogs should receive a five-in-one vaccine against several infectious diseases, including distemper, leptospirosis, and parvovirus, as well as a rabies vaccination. Ask the vet if vaccinations for cough, and Lyme disease are recommended for your dog.

See Your Vet!
You go to the doctor regularly – and so should your pet. Annual checkups give your veterinarian the chance to notice any developing illness and take care of it right away. Your vet will want to know about your pet's behavior, eating and exercise habits, and will check her temperature, pulse, and respiratory rate. The doctor will also inspect her gums and teeth, heart and lungs, and assess the health of her internal organs. If it's been a year or more since your pet has seen a vet, make that appointment today!

Fight Fleas
But do it safely, please! These little pests can cause big problems for your pets, including skin disease, anemia, scratching, allergies, and tapeworms. There are many products available to help you control the fleas on your pet and in your home, but it's of utmost importance that whatever you use is approved for use on your pet's species. In other words, don't use products for dogs on your cat, and vice versa. Cats especially are extremely sensitive to insecticides, and many pets die annually from improper use of flea control products. Ask your vet for a recommendation, and don't forget – when fighting fleas, you'll need to treat ALL the pets in the household, not just those who are obviously infested.

Prevent Heartworm
It's difficult to treat and sometimes fatal, but heartworm infection is easily prevented. Your dog should be given a blood test for heartworm every year in the early spring, and your veterinarian may prescribe a preventive tablet to be given once a month throughout mosquito season. (Some vets may recommend the medication year-round.) Although dogs are natural hosts for heartworm, cats can also contract this disease, transmitted through the bite of an infected mosquito. Talk to your vet if you think your kitty is at risk.

Get Moving
Not only will daily exercise keep your pet physically fit and mentally healthy, it helps channel aggressive and destructive behavior. Regular activity also burns up calories and increases muscle mass and cardiovascular strength. When it comes to canines, individual exercise needs vary based on breed, sex, age, and level of health, but a couple of walks around the block every day is probably not enough – especially if your pooch is an adolescent or a member of the sporting, herding, hound, or terrier breeds. And if your cat has fallen into bad exercise habits (i.e. sure, she can run – to her food dish!), you will have to engage her in supervised fun and games. Always start slow, though, and limit beginning sessions to five minutes or so.

Battle the Bulge
Not enough exercise and too much food will cause any animal to gain weight – especially pets, who rely on you to regulate nutrition and activity levels. Excess flesh can cause health problems, including arthritis and liver and heart disease. Overweight pets face increased risk during surgery, and really fat cats can get a form of diabetes. What's the best way to tip the scales in your pet's favor? Gradually decrease her food intake while increasing her activity level. You can switch to a reduced calorie food or make a cutback in the portion size of her regular food. We recommend a gradual reduction of 10 to 25 percent for cats, and 25 to 33 percent for dogs – but it's always a good idea to check with your pet's vet first.

Do a Weekly Health Check
Regular home checkups are a great way to nip potential health problems in the bud. Plus, they're as easy as one, two, three: 1) Check under your pet's fur for lumps, bumps, flakes, or scabs. 2) Check your pet's ears and eyes for any signs of redness or discharge. 3) Make note of any changes in her eating or drinking habits. If something seems off, call the vet.

Memorize our List of Foods to Avoid
Our experts at the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center urge you to avoid feeding the following foods to your pet: Alcoholic beverages, avocado, chocolate, coffee, fatty foods, macadamia nuts, moldy or spoiled foods, onions and onion powder, raisins and grapes, salt, yeast dough, garlic, and products sweetened with xylitol.

Don't Forget Your Pet's Teeth
Does your pet have morning breath – all day long? This is a major indicator that your pet is in need of dental care. Particles of food, saliva, and bacteria – what's commonly called “plaque” – can build up on the teeth and gums and cause infection. If left untreated, infection can result in tooth decay – and even move into the bloodstream and affect your pet's heart, lungs, liver, kidneys, bones, and joints! Check your animal companion's teeth and gums at least once a week, and ask your vet how you can further prevent gum disease by regular brushing with a toothpaste formulated especially for your pet's species.

General Cat Care

What you'll need to know to keep your companion feline happy and healthy.

BACKGROUND

Cats were domesticated sometime between 4,000 and 8,000 years ago, in Africa and the Middle East. Small wild cats started hanging out where humans stored their grain. When humans saw cats up close and personal, they began to admire felines for their beauty and grace.

There are many different breeds of cats--from the hairless Sphynx and the fluffy Persian to the silvery spotted Egyptian mau. But the most popular felines of all are non-pedigree – that includes brown tabbies, black-and-orange tortoiseshells, all-black cats with long hair, striped cats with white socks and everything in between.

COST

When you first get your cat, you'll need to spend about $25 for a litter box, $10 for a collar, and $30 for a carrier. Food runs about $170 a year, plus $50 annually for toys and treats, $175 annually for litter and an average of $150 for veterinary care every year. The best place to get a cat? Your local shelter!

Note: Make sure you have all your supplies before you bring your new pet home.

BASIC CARE

Feeding An adult cat should be fed one large or two or three smaller meals each day.

Kittens from 6 to 12 weeks must eat four times a day.

Kittens from three to six months need to be fed three times a day.

You can either feed specific meals, throwing away any leftover canned food after 30 minutes, or keep dry food available at all times. We recommend a high-quality, brand-name kitten or cat food; avoid generic brands. You will need to provide fresh, clean water at all times, and wash and refill water bowls daily.

Although cat owners of old were told to give their pets a saucer of milk, cats do not easily digest cow's milk, which can cause diarrhea in kittens and cats. Treats are yummy for cats, but don't go overboard. Most packaged treats contain lots of sugar and fat, which can pack on the pounds. Some cats like fresh fruits and vegetables, like broccoli, corn or cantaloupe. You can offer these once in awhile.

If your kitten is refusing food or isn't eating enough, try soaking her kitten food in warm water. If that doesn't work, kittens can be fed human baby food for a short time. Use turkey or chicken baby food made for children six months and older. Gradually mix with her regular food.

Grooming
Most cats stay relatively clean and rarely need a bath, but you should brush or comb your cat regularly. Frequent brushing helps keep your cat's coat clean, reduces the amount of shedding and cuts down on the incidence of hairballs.

Handling
To pick up your cat, place one hand behind the front legs and another under the hindquarters. Lift gently. Never pick up a cat by the scruff of the neck or by the front legs.

Housing
Your pet should have her own clean, dry place in your home to sleep and rest. Line your cat's bed with a soft, warm blanket or towel. Be sure to wash the bedding often. Please keep your cat indoors. Cats who are allowed outdoors can contract diseases, get ticks or parasites, become lost or get hit by a car, or get into fights with other free-roaming cats and dogs. Also, cats may prey on native wildlife.

Identification
If allowed outdoors (again, we caution against it!), your cat must wear a safety collar and an ID tag. A safety collar with an elastic panel will allow your cat to break loose if the collar gets caught on something. And if your pet is indoors-only, an ID tag or an implanted microchip can help insure that your cat is returned if he or she becomes lost.

Litter Box
All indoor cats need a litter box, which should be placed in a quiet, accessible location. A bathroom or utility room is a good place for your cat's box. In a multi-level home, one box per floor is recommended. Avoid moving the box unless absolutely necessary. Then do so slowly, a few inches a day.

Keep in mind that cats won't use a messy, smelly litter box, so scoop solid wastes out of the box at least once a day. Dump everything, wash with a mild detergent and refill at least once a week; you can do this less frequently if using clumping litter. Don't use ammonia, deodorants or scents, especially lemon, when cleaning the litter box.

Play
Cats delight in stalking imaginary prey. The best toys are those that can be made to jump and dance around and look alive. Your cat can safely act out her role as a predator by pouncing on toys instead of people's ankles. Please don't use your hands or fingers as play objects with kittens. This type of rough play may cause biting and scratching behaviors to develop as your kitten matures.

Scratching
Cats need to scratch! When a cat scratches, the old outer nail sheath is pulled off and the sharp, smooth claws underneath are exposed. Cutting your cat's nails every two to three weeks will keep them relatively blunt and less likely to harm the arms of both humans and furniture.

Provide your cat with a sturdy scratching post, at least three feet high, which will allow her to stretch completely when scratching. The post should also be stable enough that it won't wobble during use, and should be covered with rough material such as sisal, burlap or tree bark. Many cats also like scratching pads. A sprinkle of catnip once or twice a month will keep your cat interested in her post or pad.

HEALTH

Your cat should see the veterinarian at least once a year for an examination and annual shots, and immediately if she is sick or injured.

Ear Mites
These tiny parasites are a common problem that can be transmitted from cat to cat. If your cat is constantly scratching at his ears or shaking his head, he may be infested with ear mites. You will need to call your vet, as your cat's ears will need to be thoroughly cleaned before medication is dispensed.

Feline Urological Syndrome (FUS)
Both males and females can develop this lower urinary inflammation, also called Feline Lower Urinary Tract Disease (FLUTD). Signs of FUS include frequent trips to the litter box, blood in the urine and crying out or straining when urinating. If your male cat looks "constipated," he may have a urethral obstruction and can't urinate. This can be fatal if not treated quickly. Urethral blockages are rare in females. About five percent of cats are affected with FUS. Special diets may help prevent this condition.

Fleas and Ticks
Flea infestation should be taken seriously. These tiny parasites feed off of your pet, transmit tapeworms and irritate the skin. Carefully check your cat once a week for fleas and ticks. If there are fleas on your cat, there will be fleas in your house. You may need to use flea bombs or premise-control sprays, and be sure to treat all animals in your house. Take care that any sprays, powders or shampoos you use are safe for cats and that all products are compatible when used together. Cats die every year from improper treatment with flea and tick control products. Please contact your veterinarian for the most effective flea control program for your pet.

Medicines and Poisons
Never give your cat medication that has not been prescribed by a veterinarian. For example, did you know that acetaminophens and aspirin can be FATAL to a cat?! Keep rat poison or other rodenticides away from your cat. If you suspect that your animal has ingested a poisonous substance, call your veterinarian or the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center for 24-hour animal poison information at (888) 426- 4435.

Spaying and Neutering
Female cats should be spayed and male cats neutered by six months of age. Neutering a male (removing the testicles) can prevent urine spraying, decrease the urge to escape outside and look for a mate, and reduce fighting between males. Spaying a female (removing the ovaries and uterus) helps prevent breast cancer, which is usually fatal, and pyometra (uterus infection), a very serious problem in older females that must be treated with surgery and intensive medical care. Since cats can breed up to three times per year, it is vital that your female feline be spayed to prevent her from having unwanted litters.

Vaccinations
Kittens should be vaccinated with a combination vaccine (called a “3 in 1”) at 2, 3 and 4 months of age, and then annually. This vaccine protects cats from panleukopenia (also called feline distemper), calicivirus and rhinotracheitis. If you have an unvaccinated cat older than four months of age, he will need a series of two vaccinations given 2 to 3 weeks apart, followed by yearly vaccinations.

There is a vaccine available for feline leukemia virus (FeLV). This is one of the two immune system viruses (retroviruses) that infect cats. The other is feline immunodeficiency virus (FIV). There is no vaccine available for FIV. Cats can be infected with either virus for months, even years, without any indication that they are carrying a fatal virus. All cats should be tested for these viruses.

FeLV and FIV can be transmitted at birth from the mother or through the bite of an infected cat. Neither virus can infect humans. Many outdoor and stray cats and kittens carry this infection. Because of the fatal nature of these diseases, you should not expose cats already living in your home by taking in untested cats or kittens. To be safe, keep your cat indoors – but if your cat does go outside, he should be vaccinated against the feline leukemia virus. Remember, no vaccine is 100-percent effective.

Please note, if your companion cat gets sick because he is not properly vaccinated, the vaccinations should be given after your pet has recovered.

Worms
Kittens and cats can be infected with several types of worms. The key to treatment is incorrect diagnosis. This will ensure that the medication is effective against the parasite your pet has. A dewormer that eliminates roundworms, for example, will not kill tapeworms. Your veterinarian can best determine the culprit – and prescribe the appropriate medication.

CAT SUPPLY CHECKLIST

Premium-brand cat food

Food dish

Water bowl

Interactive toys

Brush

Comb

Safety cat collar with ID tag

Scratching post or scratching pad

Litter box

Cat carrier

Cat bed or box with warm blanket or towel

Ragamuffins

Ragamuffins

With a calm, patient temperament that lends itself to the robust play of children, Ragamuffins love to please their owners and are extremely sweet cats, Raymond said. Depending on your child’s age, teaching them about respecting their cat can begin with assisting in the care of their pet.

“A younger child can begin by assisting parents with feeding and cleaning of the cat’s area and (can) progress as they get older to helping with the grooming routine and changing out the litter box,” she said.

Manx

Manx

An extremely social, friendly breed, Manx cats make loving and devoted companions. With a great sense of humor, Manx love interactive play and get along well with children and other family pets and have even been known to act as a protector of their families. The breed is known for its varied tail length, which can range from short and stubby to long and lush.

Maine Coon

Maine Coon

One of the largest domestic breeds of cat, Maine Coons may be intimidating in size but are known for their friendliness, loving nature and intelligence. Commonly sought after as a family pet, companion, and even therapy cat, Raymond said the Maine Coon is very good with both children and other pets.

Havana Brown

Havana Brown

With captivating green eyes and a beautiful, chocolate-colored coat, Havana Browns are alert, intelligent and affectionate cats with a slightly mischievous streak, according to Raymond. A breed that loves companionship and human interaction, Havana Browns love being a vocal part of an active household and get along well with other cats, dog's and children, who should learn about caring for and respecting their cat from early on.

“Children must respect cats just like they would another human being,” Raymond said. “The message must be clear that it is our job to protect and care for the animal and treat them in the proper manner.”

Devon Rex

Devon Rex

With oversized ears and large eyes, the Devon Rex is a natural with children and makes a tireless playmate, Raymond said. Independent enough to entertain themselves during the day, Devon Rexes will happily welcome their family members home from work and school and, if they’re allowed, will snuggle under the covers with their children at bedtime.

Burmese

Burmese

Playful, fearless and intelligent, Burmese make excellent companions who enjoy being around children, pet and people. With a curiosity that may cause them to make a little mischief or attempt feats beyond their means, says Raymond, Burmese enjoy being around their people without being too demanding.

Bombay

Bombay

A mischievous, intelligent breed, Bombay cats can be leash trained, enjoy a good game of fetch and are fond of inventing new ways to entertain themselves and their families, Raymond said. Outgoing and affectionate, Bombays can easily adapt to a family busy lifestyle while getting along well with kids, grand, parents and other pets.

When supervising playtime with your children and cat, Raymond recommends monitoring your children for overly loud, aggressive or boisterous behavior that isn’t suitable for a cat and replacing it with fun, interactive play that engages and entertains both the cat and child.

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Birman

Birman

An easy-to-handle, unobtrusive breed, Birmans are exceptionally sweet natured cats that love to be with people, Raymond said. Patient and even-tempered, the color pointed Birman is an excellent choice for families with children and other pets.

American Shorthair

American Shorthair

With good looks, a history of good health and a sweet personality, American Shorthairs make gentle companions and excellent playmates for children. The breed originated from cats following settlers from Europe to North America, Raymond said and is amiable to both children and other household pets. They require fairly regular grooming, once or twice a week, to remove loose fur from their undercoat.

Go Pro

Go Pro

Polish those cat cuddling skills with a wider, always appreciative audience. Stroking adoptable cats at a shelter or rescue group will give those kitties hope and happiness, socializing them in the process. Grown cats who’ve been surrendered or are shy and skittish will find reassurance in a friendly human hand. Kittens eager for affection will unleash the world’s loudest purrs. Share the love with multiple felines who lack an official cat cuddler of their own and bask in the instant glow of their gratitude. This generous use of a kindly touch will make you even more expert when it comes cuddling up to your own cat.

While You Were Sleeping

While You Were Sleeping

Napping cats enjoy gentle stroking, which may up the volume of their sleepy-time purr, and if you decide to join Fluffy for a refreshing catnap, you’ll soon be snoring in synch. And you may wake with a cat firmly planted on your back or stomach, flexing her whiskers and gazing into your sleep-filled orbs. You can softly snuggle a sleeping kitten, but be cautious about wrapping your arms around a sleeping adult cat. Grown cats can become grumpy at the subconscious surprise of being heated for a hug.

Don't Fumble That Feline!

Don't Fumble That Feline!

Never grasp your cat as if she’s a football. You’re not a running back and she’s not an NFL official product. If you’re tempted to tuck Kitty under your arm and head for the sofa, remember that all cats dislike being grabbed tightly around the middle and pulled too close. Fussy cats who don’t like being handled will go stiff with dislike, imitating a large turtle and protesting with their version of a 15-yard penalty, claws included.

Lap Chance

Lap Chance

Holding your cat on your lap is the ultimate joyous feline experience. Place one arm around your cat, reaching back to front, and use the other to trace her markings or stroke her chin, head, back and sides. Some cats are natural lap accessories, eager to claim their fave space, but others dislike being picked up and will resist if you keep trying. Instead, let her choose to make the lap leap when she’s ready. Respect your cat’s choice and she’ll always pick the right seat.

Back Stroke

Back Stroke

Stroking a finger along your cat’s backbone may bring her to attention as she arches in pleasure to grab more of that good cuddly feel. Great for the grooming groove, working your hands along her back gives a cat an all over relaxation reflex, just like a backrub does for humans. Most cats bliss out during a back-patting session, but some sensitive kitties set their own time limits, feeling too over stimulated to fully relax.